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Florence, Tuscany
& Umbria
With Foldout Map
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Florence, Tuscany
& Umbria
7th Edition
by John Moretti
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
John Moretti
is a freelance writer whose musings about Italy have appeared in the
Inter-
national Herald Tribune, The Independent on Sunday,
and the
New York Sun,
among oth-
ers
.
He is the author of a book for aspiring expatriates,
Living Abroad in Italy
,
and can
usually be found barbecuing in the Maremma, cycling the hills near Siena, or lingering
over a Negroni cocktail in Piazza della Repubblica.
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ISBN 978-0-470-52804-4
Editor: Jennifer Polland
Production Editor: Katie Robinson
Cartographer: Andrew Murphy
Photo Editor: Richard Fox
Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
Front cover photo: The beautiful view seen from a hill near the town of San Quirico
d’Orcia, Tuscany ©Dennis Flaherty/Jaynes Gallery/DanitaDelimont.com
Back cover photo: Palio in Siena, Tuscany ©SIME / eStock Photo
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5 4 3 2 1
CONTENTS
LIST OF MAPS
vii
1 THE BEST OF FLORENCE, TUSCANY & UMBRIA
1
1
The Best Tuscan & Umbrian
Experiences. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
2
The Best Hill Towns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
3
The Best Festivals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
4
The Greatest Artistic
Masterpieces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
5
The Best Offbeat Sights
& Experiences. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
6
The Best Wines & Vineyards . . . . . . . . 7
7
The Best Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
8
The Best Etruscan Sights . . . . . . . . . . . 9
9
The Best Luxury Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . .10
10
The Best Moderately Priced
Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
11
Florence’s Best Rooms with
a View . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
12
The Best Countryside Retreats. . . . .13
13
The Best Restaurants in Town . . . . .14
14
The Best Trattorie in Town . . . . . . . . .15
15
The Best Countryside Trattorie . . . .16
2 FLORENCE, TUSCANY & UMBRIA IN DEPTH
18
1
Florence, Tuscany &
Umbria Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
2
Looking Back at Florence,
Tuscany & Umbria. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Guelph or Ghibelline? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
23
3
Florence, Tuscany & Umbria’s
Art & Architecture. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
4
Tuscany & Umbria in
Popular Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
5
Eating & Drinking in Florence,
Tuscany & Umbria. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Good Year or Bad? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
41
3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO TUSCANY & UMBRIA
45
1
When to Go. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45
Calendar of Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
46
2
Entry Requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53
3
Getting There & Getting
Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54
4
Money & Costs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60
What Things Cost in Florence . . . . . . .
62
5
Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63
6
Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64
7
Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . .64
8
Sustainable Tourism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66
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