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Cape Cod,
Nantucket &
Martha’s
Vineyard
2004
by Laura M. Reckford
About the Author
Laura M
.
Reckford
is a writer and editor living on Cape Cod. Formerly the man-
aging editor of
Cape Cod Life Magazine,
she has also been on the editorial staff of
Good Housekeeping
magazine and
Entertainment Weekly.
She is currently a reporter
for the
Falmouth Enterprise
newspaper. She is also co-author of
France For Dummies
(published by Wiley Publishing, Inc).
Published by:
Wiley Publishing, Inc.
111 River St.
Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744
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ISBN 0-7645-4281-8
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54321
Contents
List of Maps
v
What’s New in Cape Cod, Nantucket &
Martha’s Vineyard
1
1
The Best of Cape Cod, Nantucket &
Martha’s Vineyard
3
1
The Best Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . .4
2
The Best Bike Routes . . . . . . . . .5
3
The Best Small Towns
& Villages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
4
The Best Luxury Hotels & Inns . . .10
5
The Best Hotel Deals . . . . . . . .11
6
The Best Restaurants . . . . . . . .12
7
The Best Clam Shacks . . . . . . . .13
8
The Best Shopping . . . . . . . . . .14
9
The Best Bars & Clubs . . . . . . .14
2
Planning Your Trip to Cape Cod & the Islands
16
1
The Lay of the Land . . . . . . . . .16
2
Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . .19
3
Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
4
When to Go: Climate & Events . . .21
Cape Cod & the Islands
Calendar of Events . . . . . . . . . .23
5
Health & Insurance . . . . . . . . . .28
6
Tips for Travelers with
Special Needs . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
7
Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
A Word About Traffic . . . . . . . .34
8
Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Travel Times to Cape Cod
& the Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
9
Tips on Accommodations . . . . .39
10
Planning Your Trip Online . . . . .41
Fast Facts: The Cape
& Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
3
For International Visitors
47
1
Preparing for Your Trip . . . . . . .47
2
Getting to the
Cape & Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . .53
3
Getting Around the
United States . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53
Fast Facts:For the
International Traveler . . . . . . . .54
4
The Upper Cape: Sandwich, Bourne,
Falmouth & Mashpee
60
1
Sandwich . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61
Family-Friendly Hotels
& Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . .69
2
Bourne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73
Ocean Quest . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74
3
Falmouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78
4
Mashpee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95
iv
CONTENTS
5
The Mid Cape: Barnstable, Hyannis,
Yarmouth & Dennis
99
1
Barnstable, Hyannis, Neighboring
Villages & Environs . . . . . . . . .100
Camelot on Cape Cod:
The Kennedys in Hyannisport . . .106
2
Yarmouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117
3
Dennis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .125
6
The Lower Cape: Brewster, the Harwiches,
Chatham & Orleans
134
1
Brewster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .134
Family-Friendly Hotels
& Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . .144
2
Harwich . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .145
3
Chatham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .151
4
Orleans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .165
7
The Outer Cape: Eastham, Wellfleet,
Truro & Provincetown
175
1
Eastham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .176
2
Wellfleet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .182
Cape Cod National Seashore . . .184
3
Truro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .193
4
Provincetown . . . . . . . . . . . . .198
Whale-Watching . . . . . . . . . . .202
8
Nantucket
221
1
Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .222
2
Beaches & Recreational
Pursuits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .226
3
Museums & Historic
Landmarks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .229
4
Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . .230
5
Kid Stuff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .232
6
Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .233
7
Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . .235
8
Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .241
Nantucket’s Music Scene . . . .249
9
Nantucket After Dark . . . . . . .250
9
Martha’s Vineyard
251
1
Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .252
Reservations-Only Policy
for Car Passage to
Martha’s Vineyard . . . . . . . . .254
2
A Stroll Around Edgartown . . . .258
3
Beaches & Recreational
Pursuits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .261
4
Museums & Historic
Landmarks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .267
Menemsha: A New England
Fishing Village . . . . . . . . . . . .268
5
Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . .270
6
Kid Stuff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .270
7
Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .271
8
Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . .274
9
Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .282
The Quintessential Lobster
Dinner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .284
10
Martha’s Vineyard After Dark . . .290
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