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//-->Ireland2004by Suzanne Rowan KelleherHere’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.”—Booklist“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”—Glamour Magazine“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”—Des Moines Sunday Register“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”—Knight Ridder NewspapersAbout the AuthorSuzanne Rowan Kelleheris a freelance travel writer and the former Europe EditorofTravel Holidaymagazine. She has traveled extensively in Ireland, is married to anIrishman, and currently lives in County Dublin.Published by:Wiley Publishing, Inc.111 River St.Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744Copyright © 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rightsreserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval sys-tem or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photo-copying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior writtenpermission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriateper-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers,MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for per-mission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc.,10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax317/572-4447, E-Mail: permcoordinator@wiley.com.Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks ofJohn Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registeredtrademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are theproperty of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated withany product or vendor mentioned in this book.ISBN 0-7645-4216-8Editor: Amy LyonsProduction Editor: Blair J. PottengerCartographer: Roberta StockwellPhoto Editor: Richard FoxProduction by Wiley Indianapolis Composition ServicesFront cover photo: Blarney Castle, County CorkBack cover photo: Duke Street, DublinFor information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support,please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974,outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002.Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content thatappears in print may not be available in electronic formats.Manufactured in the United States of America54 32 1ContentsList of MapsWhat’s New in Ireland1The Best of Ireland1The Best Picture-Postcard Towns . . . . . . . . . . . . .42The Best Natural Wonders . . . . . .53The Best Castles . . . . . . . . . . . . .84The Best of Ancient Ireland . . . . .95Remnants of the Golden Age:The Best Early Christian Ruins . . .106The Best Literary Spots . . . . . . .117The Best Gardens . . . . . . . . . . .12vii138The Best Attractions for theWhole Family . . . . . . . . . . . . . .139The Best Active Vacations . . . . .1310The Best LuxuryAccommodations . . . . . . . . . . .1411The Best Moderately PricedAccommodations . . . . . . . . . . .1512The Best Restaurants . . . . . . . . .1613The Best Pubs . . . . . . . . . . . . .1714The Best Websites . . . . . . . . . .182Planning Your Trip to Ireland12345678The Lay of the Land . . . . . . . . .19The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . .20Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . .23Entry Requirements & Customs . . .24Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27Ireland Calendar of Events. . . .28Health & Insurance . . . . . . . . . .33Tips for Travelers withSpecial Needs . . . . . . . . . . . . .36Summer School . . . . . . . . . . . . .37Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40Planning Your Trip Online . . . . .431911Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .46121314151617910Money-Saving Rail &Bus Passes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49From Cottages to Castles:Putting a Roof overYour Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53Dining Bargains. . . . . . . . . . . .58Tips on Restaurants & Pubs . . . .59Tips on Sightseeing &Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60Tracing Your Irish Roots . . . . . . .62Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . . .64Recommended Reading . . . . . .65Fast Facts: Ireland. . . . . . . . . .663Ireland Outdoors1Bicycling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .722Walking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74Ireland’s National Parks. . . . . .743Bird-Watching . . . . . . . . . . . . .774Golf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .785Horseback Riding . . . . . . . . . . .79726Fishing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80Angling for Trout & Salmon. . . .817Kayaking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .828Sailing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .829Diving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8310Windsurfing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .84ivCONTENTS4Dublin1Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86The Neighborhoods in Brief. . . .912Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .92Fast Facts: Dublin. . . . . . . . . .963Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . .984Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .111Picnic, Anyone?. . . . . . . . . . .1195Seeing the Sights . . . . . . . . . .124The Book of Kells. . . . . . . . . .12585Monumental Humor. . . . . . . .136Family Favorites. . . . . . . . . . .140The Great Outdoors . . . . . . . .145Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . .147Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148New Kid on the Block:The Old City. . . . . . . . . . . . . .149Dublin After Dark . . . . . . . . . .154Side Trips from Dublin . . . . . . .1636789105Out from Dublin1County Wicklow & CountyCarlow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1732County Kildare: Ireland’s HorseCountry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .190173Beyond the Pale inCounty Laois . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1953Counties Meath & Louth/The Boyne River Valley . . . . . .1976The Southeast1County Wexford . . . . . . . . . . .206A Trip Through History:Exploring the Ring of Hook. . .2142062County Waterford . . . . . . . . . .2243South Tipperary . . . . . . . . . . .2364County Kilkenny . . . . . . . . . . .2467Cork: The Rebel City1Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2612Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . .264Fast Facts: Cork City. . . . . . . .2653Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . .2654Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2682615Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2716Spectator Sports & OutdoorPursuits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2747Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2748Cork After Dark . . . . . . . . . . .2768Out from Cork1Kinsale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2792East Cork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2883West Cork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .292279Southern Exposure:An Excursion to CapeClear Island. . . . . . . . . . . . . .2969County Kerry: “The Kingdom”1The Iveragh Peninsula . . . . . . .3092Killarney . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3193The Dingle Peninsula . . . . . . .334309Swimming with a Dolphin. . . .3394Tralee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .344
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