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South Africa
5th Edition
by Pippa de Bruyn
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”
—Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
About the Author
Pippa de Bruyn
was born in Durban, raised in Johannesburg, and has now settled in
Cape Town. She is an award-winning journalist and is also a coauthor of
Frommer’s India
.
Published by:
Wiley Publishing, Inc.
111 River St.
Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
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mentioned in this book.
ISBN: 978-0-470-14602-6
Editors: Margot Weiss and Alexis Lipsitz Flippin
Production Editor: Jana M. Stefanciosa
Cartographer: Andrew Murphy
Photo Editor: Richard Fox
Anniversary Logo Design: Richard Pacifico
Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
Front cover photo: Kruger National Park, Mpumalanga Province: Female giraffe and calf
Back cover photo: Ndebele Village, Gauteng: Ndebele tribeswoman by wall painting,
smiling
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54321
Contents
List of Maps
vi
What’s New in Southern Africa
1
1
The Best of Southern Africa
4
1
Unique Southern African Moments . . .4
2
The Wildest Animal Encounters . . . . . .5
3
The Best Private Game Lodges &
Camps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
4
The Best National Parks & Provincial
Nature Reserves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
5
The Best Outdoor Adventures . . . . . . .9
6
The Best Places to Discover South
African Culture & History . . . . . . . . .10
7
The Most Authentic Culinary
Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
2
Planning Your Trip to Southern Africa
13
1
The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
2
Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
3
Entry Requirements & Customs . . . . .19
4
When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Calendar of Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
5
Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Getting Through the Airport . . . . . . .27
6
Planning Your Safari . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
7
Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
8
Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
9
Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
10
Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . . .38
Frommers.com: The Complete Travel
Resource . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
11
Staying Connected . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Online Traveler’s Toolbox . . . . . . . . .42
12
Packages for the Independent
Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
13
Escorted General-Interest Tours . . . . .44
14
Special-Interest Trips . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
15
Getting Around Southern Africa . . . .45
16
Tips on Accommodations . . . . . . . . .48
17
Tips on Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49
18
Recommended Books . . . . . . . . . . . .50
Fast Facts: South Africa . . . . . . . . . .51
3
Suggested Southern African Itineraries
55
1
The Real Relaxer: Cape Town &
Environs in 1 Week . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55
2
The Quick Fix: Botswana, Vic Falls &
Cape Town in 1 Week . . . . . . . . . . . .57
3
Going on Safari: The Best of the Best,
No Expense Spared, in 10 Days . . . .59
4
The Affordable Southern African Safari
in 14 Days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61
iv
CONTENTS
4
The Mother City: Cape Town & the Winelands
63
1
Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64
The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . . .66
2
Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68
Fast Facts: Cape Town . . . . . . . . . . .71
3
Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72
Destination: Spa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88
4
Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91
The Dining Mile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96
Family-Friendly Restaurants . . . . . .107
5
Exploring Cape Town . . . . . . . . . . .110
Cultural Sights: Cape Muslim to
Khayalitsha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118
6
Farther Afield: Discovering the
Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .121
Island of Tears . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122
Driving Tour: A Peninsula Drive . . .123
7
Surf & Sand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126
8
Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126
9
Staying Active . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .127
10
Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .129
11
Cape Town After Dark . . . . . . . . . .133
The Great Gay EsCape . . . . . . . . . .134
12
The Winelands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .138
Three Dramatic Wineland Drives . . .141
Selecting Your Cape Wines . . . . . . .148
5
Whale Coast & Garden Route: The Western Cape
159
1
Staying Active . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .160
2
Exploring the Overberg &
Whale Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .164
3
Swellendam & the Overberg/Breede
River Valley Interior . . . . . . . . . . . . .174
The Route Less Traveled: Three Days
on the R62 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .176
4
Exploring the Klein Karoo &
the Garden Route . . . . . . . . . . . . . .179
Dining with a Local . . . . . . . . . . . .203
5
The West Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .212
The West Coast Beach Barbecue . . .217
6
Cederberg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .218
7
Side Trips to the Northern Cape . . .220
6
Undiscovered Wilderness: The Eastern Cape
222
1
Port Elizabeth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .223
Fast Facts: Port Elizabeth . . . . . . . .226
The 1820 Settlers: Deceit, Despair &
Courage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .227
The Home of the Perfect Wave . . . .234
2
Graaff-Reinet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .235
3
The Wild Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .237
7
Africa’s Big Apple: Jo’burg & Safari Getaways
239
1
Johannesburg & Environs . . . . . . . .240
Staying Safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .243
The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . .244
Fast Facts: Johannesburg &
Tshwane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .250
Business in Tshwane? . . . . . . . . . . .258
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