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Vancouver &
Victoria
2004
by Shawn Blore & Alexandra de Vries
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”
—Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
Published by:
Wiley Publishing, Inc.
111 River St.
Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744
Copyright © 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights
reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval sys-
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Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of
John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered
trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the
property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with
any product or vendor mentioned in this book.
ISBN 0-7645-4269-9
ISSN 1045-9316
Editor: Kendra Falkenstein
Production Editor: Suzanna R. Thompson
Cartographer: Dorit Kreisler and Roberta Stockwell
Photo Editor: Richard Fox
Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
Front cover photo: Totem pole in Vancouver’s Stanley Park
Back cover photo: Victoria’s Butchart Gardens
For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support,
please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974,
outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002.
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Manufactured in the United States of America
54321
Contents
List of Maps
vi
What’s New in Vancouver & Victoria
1
The Best of Vancouver & Victoria
3
1
1
Frommer’s Favorite
Vancouver Experiences . . . . . . . .4
The Best Websites for
Vancouver & Victoria . . . . . . . . . .5
A Short History of
First Nations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
2
Frommer’s Favorite
Victoria Experiences . . . . . . . . . . .9
3
Frommer’s Favorite Experiences
Beyond Vancouver & Victoria . . .10
4
Two Trips of a Lifetime . . . . . . . .10
5
Best Vancouver Hotel Bets . . . . .11
6
Best Victoria Hotel Bets . . . . . . .12
7
Best Vancouver Dining Bets . . . .14
8
Best Victoria Dining Bets . . . . . .16
2
Planning Your Trip to Vancouver & Victoria
18
1
Visitor Information &
Entry Requirements . . . . . . . . . .18
2
Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
The Canadian Dollar &
the U.S. Dollar . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
3
When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Vancouver & Victoria
Calendar of Events . . . . . . . . . .23
4
Insurance, Health & Safety . . . . .30
5
Specialized Travel Resources . . . .31
6
Getting to Vancouver . . . . . . . . .33
7
Getting to Victoria . . . . . . . . . . .37
8
Planning Your Trip Online . . . . . .38
Frommers.com: The
Complete Travel Resource . . . . .39
9
Tips on Accommodations . . . . . .40
3
Getting to Know Vancouver
42
1
Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
2
Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
Fast Facts: Vancouver . . . . . . . .51
4
Where to Stay in Vancouver
55
1
Downtown & Yaletown . . . . . . .55
Bed & Breakfast Registries . . . . .56
2
The West End . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65
3
The West Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70
4
The North Shore (North
Vancouver & West Vancouver) . . .73
iv
CONTENTS
5
Where to Dine in Vancouver
74
1
Restaurants by Cuisine . . . . . . . .74
2
Downtown & Yaletown . . . . . . .76
3
Gastown & Chinatown . . . . . . .84
4
The West End . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85
5
The West Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89
6
The East Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94
7
The North Shore . . . . . . . . . . . .96
8
Coffee, Sweets & Ice Cream . . . .97
Caffeine Nation . . . . . . . . . . . . .98
6
Exploring Vancouver
99
Sightseeing Suggestions . . . . . . .99
1
The Top Attractions . . . . . . . . .102
Granville’s Greatest Hits . . . . . .105
The Other Suspension Bridge . . .111
2
Architectural Highlights . . . . . .112
3
Neighborhoods to Explore . . . .115
4
Vancouver’s Plazas & Parks . . .118
5
Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . .121
6
Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . .124
7
Outdoor Activities . . . . . . . . . .127
8
Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . .136
Vancouver Strolls
137
7
Walking Tour 1: Downtown
& the West End . . . . . . . . . . . .137
Walking Tour 2: Gastown
& Chinatown . . . . . . . . . . . . .142
Walking Tour 3: Kitsilano,
Granville Island & Yaletown . . .146
8
Vancouver Shopping
152
1
The Shopping Scene . . . . . . . .152
2
Shopping A to Z . . . . . . . . . . .153
9
Vancouver After Dark
164
1
The Performing Arts . . . . . . . . .164
2
Laughter & Music . . . . . . . . . .168
3
Bars, Pubs & Other
Watering Holes . . . . . . . . . . . .169
4
Dance Clubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . .173
5
Gay & Lesbian Bars . . . . . . . . .175
6
Other Diversions . . . . . . . . . . .176
Getting to Know Victoria
178
10
1
Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .179
Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . .181
2
Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .182
Fast Facts: Victoria . . . . . . . . .184
Where to Stay in Victoria
186
11
1
The Inner Harbour & Nearby . . .186
The Best Bed-and-Breakfast
Registries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .188
2
Downtown & Old Town . . . . . .194
3
Outside the Central Area . . . . .198
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